This series of shallow lakes in the heart of Croatia are a
nature lover's paradise, with clear waters pooled in between rocky canyons and
dramatic waterfalls gushing over cliff edges.
Wooden walkways make access easy for visitors. Swimming is
forbidden inside the national park, but there are places for a dip outside,
such as Korana Village. Look out for freshwater fish and brown bears in the
surrounding hills.
Fee: K110 (US$20) for adults in summer season.
Plitvice Lakes National Park (Croatian: Nacionalni park
Plitvička jezera, colloquial Plitvice, pronounced [plîtʋitse]) is the oldest
national park in Southeast Europe and the largest national park in Croatia.[2]
The national park was founded in 1949 and is situated in the mountainous karst
area of central Croatia, at the border to Bosnia and Herzegovina. The important
north-south road connection, which passes through the national park area,
connects the Croatian inland with the Adriatic coastal region. The protected
area extends over 296.85 square kilometres (73,350 acres). About 90 percent of
this area are part of Lika-Senj County, while the remaining 10 percent are part
of Karlovac County.[3] In 1979, Plitvice Lakes National Park was added to the
UNESCO World Heritage register among the first natural sites worldwide.[4] Each
year, more than 1,200,000 visitors are recorded.[5] Entrance is subject to
variable charges, up to 110 kuna or around $18USD per adult in peak season.[6]
Strict regulations apply.
Features [edit]
The national park is world famous for its lakes arranged in
cascades. Currently, 16 lakes can be seen from the surface.[3] These lakes are
a result of the confluence of several small rivers and subterranean karst
rivers. The lakes are all interconnected and follow the water flow. They are
separated by natural dams of travertine, which is deposited by the action of
moss, algae, and bacteria. The particularly sensitive travertine barriers are
the result of an interplay between water, air and plants. The encrusted plants
and bacteria accumulate on top of each other, forming travertine barriers which
grow at the rate of about 1 cm per year.
The sixteen lakes are separated into an upper and lower
cluster formed by runoff from the mountains, descending from an altitude of 636
to 503 m (2,087 to 1,650 ft) over a distance of some eight km, aligned in a
south-north direction. The lakes collectively cover an area of about two square
kilometers, with the water exiting from the lowest lake forming the Korana
River.
The lakes are renowned for their distinctive colors, ranging
from azure to green, grey or blue. The colors change constantly depending on
the quantity of minerals or organisms in the water and the angle of sunlight.
Through different climatic influences and the large
difference in elevation within the protected area, a multifaceted flora and
fauna has been created. The national park area is home to many endemic species.
Those species that prevailed at the lakes before the arrival of man still
exist.
Origins of the name and reputation [edit]
The name Plitvice was first mentioned in a written document
in 1777 by Dominik Vukasović, the priest of Otočac.[7] This name was designated
due to natural phenomena that have created the lakes. Nature formed shallow
basins (Croatian pličina or plitvak, plitko means shallow), which have been
filled with water. For centuries, water has changed the limestone and thus the
landscape of this area. The emerging travertine barriers decelerated and
retained the flowing water. The height of these dams is continuously
growing.[8]
Some scientists refer to the river Plitvica as origin of the
name. This little river flows into the Plitvice Lakes at the lower and final
part of the lakes. A nearby village bears the same name. The water masses of
the Plitvice Lakes continue as Korana river in northern direction.
The national park has become famous during the 1960s and
1970s through several Western film productions of Karl May novels. Many scenes
have been shot at the lakes or waterfalls.
Location [edit]
Routes and distances [edit]
The Plitvice Lakes have formed in a depression between the
Mala Kapela mountain in the west and the Plješevica mountain in the east amidst
the Dinaric Alps. The national park is located at the national route D1
Zagreb–Split between Slunj and Korenica in the vicinity of Bosnia and
Herzegovina. Other larger municipalities within the surrounding area are
Ogulin, Rakovica, Otočac, Gospić and Bihać in Bosnia.
The shortest linear distance between the Adriatic coast and
the national park is 55 km (34 mi).[9] By road from the coastal town of Senj
the distance is about 110 km (68 mi). After traversing the Velebit mountain
range travelers reach the Croatian karst plains of Lika. These plains are
characterized by many karst poljes (e.g. the Gacko polje).
The fastest north-south road connection within Croatia, the
highway A1 Zagreb–Split is distanced about 50 km (31 mi) west of the national
park and thus circumvents the protected area. Plitvice Lakes National Park can
be reached from Karlovac exit in the north, from Otočac exit in the west or
Gornja Ploča exit in the south.[10]
The nearest airports are Zadar, Zagreb and Rijeka. The
nearest train stations are Josipdol and Plaški, although no direct bus
connection from these train stations to the lakes exists.[11] Using public
transport the lakes can easily be reached by direct bus lines from Zagreb,
Karlovac, Zadar or Split.
Outline [edit]
Galovac waterfall
Cross-section
Paths between the
lakes
Lower lakes canyon
The area of Plitvice Lakes National Park extends across two
political subdivisions or counties (Croatian županija). Its 296.85 km2 (114.61
sq mi) area is divided between Lika-Senj County (90.7 percent) and Karlovac
County (9.3 percent).[3] Hence the national park authority is under national
jurisdiction. The overall water body area is about 2 square kilometers. The two
largest lakes, Prošćansko jezero and Kozjak, cover about 80 percent of the
overall water body area. These lakes are also the deepest, with a depth of 37
and 47 meters respectively. On Lake Kozjak, low-noise and ecologically-friendly
electric boats are being used. None of the other lakes in the park exceeds 25
meters in depth. The altitude drop from the first lake to the last is 133
meters.[12]
The 16 lakes that can be seen from the surface are grouped
into the 12 Upper Lakes (Gornja jezera) and the four Lower Lakes (Donja
jezera).
Topography and geology [edit]
Terrain [edit]
The particular geographic position of the Plitvice Lakes and
the specific climate features contributed to the emergence of many natural
phenomena and a rich biodiversity within this area. Despite the vicinity to the
Mediterranean climatic region, a moderate mountainous climate prevails at the
Plitvice Lakes. These climatic conditions prevail due to the Velebit mountain
range, which acts as a climatic separator between the coastal region and the
Lika high plateau. For centuries, legends have been created about this mythic
mountain range.
The availability of water, influenced by the configuration
of the terrain, has a great impact on the biodiversity of this area. The
Plitvice Lakes are surrounded by various mountains. The western side of the
national park area is enclosed by the Mala Kapela mountain, while the eastern
side is enclosed by the Plješevica mountain, which also represents the border
to Bosnia and Hercegovina. Plitvice Lakes National Park is situated in the
Plitvice plateau which is surrounded by three mountains that are part of the
Dinaric Alps: Plješevica mountain (Gornja Plješevica peak 1,640 m), Mala Kapela
mountain (Seliški Vrh peak at 1,280 m), and Medveđak (884 m).[13]
The afforested mountain slopes serve as water reservoirs.
They are also a refuge for many animal species. The large difference in
altitude in a narrow space between the mountains in the south and the Korana
river in the north also represents a significant criterion for biodiversity in
this region. The overall difference in altitude within the national park area
is 912 m (the highest elevation is Seliški vrh at 1279 m, the lowest elevation
is reached at 367 m at the bridge across the Korana river).[14]
The national Park is underlain by karstic rock, mainly
dolomite and limestone with associated lakes and caves, this has given rise to
the most distinctive feature of the lakes. Right at the lakes, the Golubnjača
Cave (145 m) before the second Korana waterfall and Šupljara Cave (68 m) above
Lake Kaluđerovac can be visited. Other caves e.g. are Mračna Cave (160 m), Vila
Jezerkinje Cave (104 m) and Golubnjača at Homoljačko Field (153 m). Within the
national park, several pit-caves exist, such as the Čudinka pit-cave (-203 m)
or Jama on Vršić (-154 m, length 110 m). In Rodića Cave at Sertić Poljana and
in Mračna Cave at the Lower Lakes, cave bear bones were found, so these sites
may be considered paleontologically significant.
Rivers [edit]
The Plitvice Lakes originate in the south of the park area
at the confluence of Bijela Rijeka (English White River) and Crna Rijeka
(English Black River). These rivers originate south of the municipality of
Plitvički Ljeskovac and unite at one of the bridges in this village. From this
place onwards to the lakes, the water masses are referred to as Matica (English
for root or origin). At the bay of Liman (also called Limun), a part of
Prošćansko jezero, another little river flows into the lakes. This river is fed
by permanent springs; the water quantity, however, varies. Temporarily, water
from other, usually dead creeks reaches Prošćansko jezero from the west.[15]
The river Plitvica reaches the Plitvice lake chain at the
northern end via the Large Waterfall. This place is called Sastavci (English
confluence or composition). The water masses of the Plitvice Lakes and the
river Plitvice form the Korana river.
Properties of the underground [edit]
The Lower Lakes
canyon
The underground configuration of the Plitvice Lakes consists
of various geologic features. Generally, the whole area of Plitvice Lakes
National Park can be attributed to the South-East European karst area. The
typical feature of this karst area is brittle or porous rock, mostly limestone
or dolomite. This configuration creates different geomorphological phenomena
being referred to as dolina (sinkhole), polje, uvala, ponor, etc.
In the future, the analysis of underground water courses
could be an interesting field of research for speleologists. Up to now, little
has been known about these unexplored courses. At first sight, a lack of water
in the karst region could be ascertained. However, this is only the case on the
surface. The major part of natural phenomena takes place underground, where an
abundance of water exists.
Due to the features of limestone, many rivers drain away
into the rock. Therefore, extensive underground river systems exist. Upon
reaching hard rock, rivers emerge on the surface. This phenomenon of
underground karst rivers (Croatian rijeka ponornica) can also be observed at
the Plitvice Lakes.
Tufa sediments have been formed from the Pleistocene onwards
in sinkholes or depressed areas between the surrounding mountains. Generally
seen, the underground of the Plitvice Lakes could be categorized into two
zones. The Upper Lakes in the south predominantly consist of dolomite rock. The
Lower lakes in the north predominantly consist of limestone rock. Dolomite rock
is slightly harder than limestone. Though fragile upon physical influence,
dolomite rock has lower water permeability properties. In contrast, limestone
rock is more compact and massive, but has a higher water permeability.[8]
From an aerial perspective, significant differences between
the terrain of the Upper and the Lower Plitvice Lakes can be observed. At the
Upper Lakes several little lakes have formed parallel to each other and a
rather shallow water flow can be observed. The Lower Lakes, however, are much
larger and virtually drill their path through the rock. Furthermore, there are
only a few lakes at the Lower Lakes. They have formed a canyon, which continues
as river Korana.
Climate [edit]
Climograph of the city of Ogulin north of the lakes
On average, the annual precipitation rate at the Plitvice
Lakes is 1,500 mm (59.06 in). Usually, in spring and fall the largest rain
quantities are measured. The average relative air humidity is 81.8 percent. In
January, the average temperature is 2.2 °C (36 °F). During the summer months of
July and August, the temperature rises to 17.4 °C (63 °F). The general average
annual temperature is 7.9 °C (46 °F). Snow falls from November until March.
Usually, the lakes are frozen during December and January.[16]
The water temperature at the springs is usually below 10 °C
(50 °F). Within the rivers and lakes, the water temperature rises up to 20 °C
(68 °F). The following example for different water temperatures measured on
July 7, 1954 clearly demonstrates large temperature differences within the
lakes: Within lake Kozjak at the depth of 4 m a temperature of 18.9 °C (66 °F)
has been measured. At a depth of 20 m, 5 °C (41 °F) have been measured. At 44 m
depth, virtually at the bottom of the lake, a temperature of 4.1 °C (39 °F) has
been measured.
The dissolution and creation of rock [edit]
The lakes of Plitvice are a result of century-old processes
and the sedimentation of chalk, which is abundantly available in the waters of
this karst area. These sedimentations are called tufa or travertine (both are
called sedra or tuf in the Croatian language, apart from many other names like
bigar or vapneni mačak).
A distinctive feature of the Plitvice lakes is the fact that
they do not represent separated, stationary waters. The lakes altogether have
always been seen as one composed system of lakes. Due to constant changes it is
not even possible to pursue individual analyses of single lakes. The water
masses reaching the lakes at the upper or lower part of the system are continuously
changing the outlook of the lakes and the surrounding landscape. They finally
exit the lakes as river Korana. On the one hand, chalk tufa is being washed
away partly. On the other hand, new sediments are continuously being formed.
Thus, new waterfalls are being formed while others run dry. Nature itself is
continuously adapting to these new conditions. As a whole, the complex of lakes
represents a very sensitive and labile ecosystem.
Alteration processes [edit]
In geological terms, the actual phenomena molding the
Plitvice Lakes are quite young. The complex processes of dissolution and
sedimentation of limestone require specific climatic preconditions. These have
only existed since the end of the ice age about 12,000 to 15,000 years ago,
according to tufa radiocarbon datings.[17]
Apart from weather and temperature factors, the water
quality and other natural factors are significant for the creation of these
natural phenomena, prevailing at the Plitvice Lakes. By passing through the
limestone underground the karst rivers dissolve chalk (calcit), which
concentrates in the water. The saturation level of calcit within the frontal
flows is thus very high. The water becomes significantly mineralized,
super-saturated with calcium and magnesium-hydrogencarbonate.[18]
The dissolution of limestone happens through alteration
processes and the effects of carbonic acid. In a natural environment, carbonic
acid (H2CO3) is formed by the dissolution of carbon dioxide (CO2) from the air
or from rainwater (H2O). Limestone or dolomite (CaMg(CO3)2) mainly consist of
calcit (CaCO3), which poorly dissolves in water. Calcit, however, is dissolved
by the effect of carbonic acid, thus creating calcium hydrogencarbonate
(Ca(HCO3)2). This is shown by the following formulas:H2O + CO2 ↔ H2CO3 ↔ H+ +
HCO3- ↔ 2 H+ + CO32-
CaCO3 + H2CO3 → Ca(HCO3)2
CaCO3 + H+ + HCO3- ↔ Ca2+ + 2 HCO3- ↔ Ca(HCO3)2
The quantity of calcium hydrogencarbonate dissolved in water
(also called calcium bicarbonate) depends on the quantity of dissolved carbon dioxide
in the water. Generally, the following could be said: The colder the water, the
higher the quantity of dissolved calcium hydrogencarbonate. Depending on the
conditions for the alteration processes, scientists identified limestone
dissolution rates of 0,01 until 4 millimeters a year. (It is possible that by
the effect of rainwater about 1 m³ of limestone is dissolved in about 10,000
years.)[19]
Sedimentation processes [edit]
The waterfall
Galovački buk at the Upper Lakes
The previously mentioned mechanical and chemical dissolution
processes are regularly occurring natural phenomena. A unique process occurring
at the Plitvice Lakes, however, is the sedimentation of water-bound chalk at
certain places. With regard to other similar phenomena in the world, at
Plitvice Lakes the sedimentation of chalk and the formation of tufa happens
dynamically all along the watercourse and in various forms (fluviatile
sedimentation). It is thus not a static phenomenon occurring at only single
places.
Another unique and distinctive feature are the natural
factors, particularly the influences of the vegetation in the process of
sedimentation. While passing the vegetation, barriers are being created by
foaming water. These naturally created barriers decelerate and dam the waters,
thus forming lakes. At Plitvice, this constant interplay between water, air,
rock and vegetation can easily be observed. The foaming water creates ever
growing and impressive waterfalls. The thresholds grown up above the water
level, create cataractes.
About 30 km (18.64 mi) north of the lakes at the conflux of
the Korana and Slunjčica rivers, right in the center of the town of Slunj,
similar phenomena occur. This part of the town, called Rastoke, is often being
referred to as "the Small Lakes of Plitvice."
Preconditions for sedimentation [edit]
The large waterfall
(78 m) of the Plitvica river at the Lower Lakes.
Measurements of carbon dioxide quantities in the water show
that they correspond with continuous sedimentation processes in the Plitvice
Lakes area. Carbon dioxide quantities at the springs are about twenty times
higher than in the atmosphere. The quantity of carbon dioxide decreases along
the water route. The Plitvica river for example loses even up to 97 percent of
its original quantity of carbon dioxide along its route.[17]
The sedimentation of calcium carbonate from the water occurs
only at certain temperature conditions (only above 14°C), e.g. when the water
warms up or by evaporation or by another loss of carbon dioxide, additionally
fostered by water plants and moss.[16] Since sedimentation only occurs under
warm, humide climate conditions, these phenomena have only been occurring since
the end of the last ice age. Since then, a layer of hardened tufa, also called
travertine, has been formed on the limestone ground.
The area of a river, in which the formation of tufa occurs,
is called precipitation area. Along the Korana river for example, measured from
its origins tufa is being formed only along the first 10 to 15 km (9.32 mi),
even if according to pH measurements the conditions would be favorable further
down the river. At the ground of Lake Kozjak a constant yearly sedimentation of
0,8 millimeters during the past 3,000 years has been ascertained. Yearly, the
barriers are growing up to 13 millimeters in height. Tufa formation processes
thus surpass erosion activities, which would destroy the sensitive barriers of
the lakes. It is estimated that the tufa sedimentations at the ground of the
lakes date back 6,000 or even 7,000 years.[20]
The precipitation of calcium carbonate, however, does not
occur right at the springs of the rivers that flow into the Plitvice Lakes. For
the precipitation of carbonate chalk (calcium carbonate) the water needs to
reach a certain mineral saturation level. At the springs this saturation level
is about 1. For the precipitation, the water saturation level needs to be
higher than 3. At the same time, the pH value of the water needs to be above
8,0 (slightly alkaline).[17]
Thresholds become barriers [edit]
Cross-section of a
barrier
The cascades of Milka
Trnina.
Small cascades
Fish in the
crystal-clear water, but European chubs are driving away trouts.
Tufa barriers are the result of continuous sedimentation
processes along natural thresholds. As the water flows in thin layers over
thresholds, it is splashed up. This disturbs the chemical balance and causes
precipitation of the carbonates, which then creates sedimentary deposits. Since
the water forms larger surfaces at these places, increased quantities of carbon
dioxide (CO2) are released. Calcium carbonate is secreted in the form of
microcrystals that are deposited, eventually creating tufa sediments (CaCO3).
This phenomenon particularly occurs on abundantly available mosses, enabling better
adherence of the crystals.
In the course of time, older barriers can be flooded by
rising water levels since other barriers have outgrown the older ones. Not so
long ago, only 400 years far back, there were two lakes in the place of today's
Kozjak lake. In the lowest third of the lake, at the level of Matijaševića
draga, a crown of an underwater barrier that is 40 m high, is stretching 4 m
below the water surface. This barrier certainly formed a magnificent waterfall
in the past. The travertine barrier at the Kozjak bridges (at the current end
of the Kozjak lake), however, grew faster. Thus, 400 years ago two lakes merged
in one. That is why the greatest depths of Kozjak lake are in its lower basin
(north from the little island).[21]
Influence of the vegetation [edit]
Calcium-carbonate-encrusted, yet growing moss,
early stage of porous travertine formation as in Plitvice.
Mosses, algae and water plants play a major role in forming
the unique landscape of the Plitvice Lakes and its tufa barriers. Up until the
21. century, it was supposed that plants extract carbon dioxide from the water
for photosynthesis purposes and that in return oxygen is being released, thus
resulting in the sedimentation of hydrogen carbonate (phytogenesis). The
leading scientist arguing for this theory was Ivo Pevalek.[22] Thanks to him
the Plitvice Lakes have been put under national protection.
Recent scientific evidence indicates that the vegetation is
not primarily responsible for the extraction of carbonate from the flowing
water. However, plants indirectly contribute to tufa formation. Pivotal for the
sedimentation is the deceleration, aeration and spraying of the water. Mosses
are a substrate for sedimentation. They are giving form to the created
travertine, and the Plitvice Lakes waterfalls can thank mosses for their
feature. Depending on various species, various biological types of travertine
can be differentiated.[18]
Photosynthesis activities of algae and mosses in conjunction
with the water, however, foster the crystallization of sediments due to the
extraction of carbon dioxide.[20] These effects are fostered by millions of
microscopically-small bacteria and algae that grow on such plants. They are
secreting mucus that is adhered to by the first microcrystals of calcite. The
most significant plants of this kind are mosses of the species bryum and
cratoneuron.
One can clearly see that young shoots of mosses are green
and soft. They are mostly without travertine, while older shoots are encrusted
by a thin and fragile yellow layer, completely covered and petrified by
plant-formed travertine. The mosses foster not only the creation of tufa barriers
but they also become part of the barrier. The moss gets encrusted with
travertine and fresh moss grows further out. First a crag is formed but later a
cave roof forms under the crag. If the water continues flowing, the cave
becomes progressively bigger. Older travertine is filled with fossilized algae
and mosses. This type of tufa rock typical of the Plitvice Lakes is called
"phytogeneous tufa."[12]
Adverse effects for tufa formation [edit]
Even though the vegetation has beneficial effects for the formation
of tufa, excessive concentrations of organic substances within the water have
adverse effects on these formation processes. Excessive plant covers have
adverse effects to mineral sedimentation. Down the Korana River from the Korana
bridge, for example, travertine creation ends quite quickly, in spite of the
supersaturation with calcium bicarbonate, because of the increased
concentration of organic matter in the water. The park authorities have thus
begun to systematically remove excessive vegetation along the barriers. Water
purity is the decisive factor for tufa formation. The water at the influx to
the Plitvice Lakes is noted pure from an analytical point of view. The
Dissolved Organic Carbon (DOC) value of the water hardly exceeds 2,5 mg/L at the
influx to the Upper Lakes (Matica). At the Lower Lakes higher concentrations
are being measured (5,15 mg/L). At the springs of other Croatian rivers in the
karst region similar concentrations have been ascertained.
During the 20th Century, uncontrolled tourism and water
pollution caused by waste water from the hotels or agricultural activities in
the surroundings of the lakes have left detrimental traces. This has led to an
increasing eutrophication of the lakes (increased concentrations of organic substances
within the water). For the sustainable formation of tufa it is thus imperative
to protect this extremely sensitive area from excessively harmful human
influence. Since 2006, it is strictly forbidden to bath or swim at the
lakes.[23] Until before, swimming was allowed at Lake Kozjak.
Types of rock [edit]Cellular rock Porous rock that has been exposed to external
effects, for example rainwater (dolomite or limestone)
Tufa Sedimentations
of minerals from the water that typically consolidate on moss or on the
underground of the lakes. These sediments are the results of century-old
sedimentation processes. Year after year, new layers of sediments are being
added.
Travertine Consolidated
tufa. Older, hardened sediments. This porous type of rock is very sensitive to
physical impacts.
Flora and Fauna [edit]
Barrier between the
lakes Gavanovac and Kaluđerovac
Bees, dragonflies and various species of insects gather in
lush meadows
With regard to plant and animal diversity, the area of the
Plitvice Lakes belongs to the most significant areas of Croatia. On the one
hand, this is due to climatic conditions and on the other hand due to the
location of this area, since the lakes are far away from polluted and noisy
cities or industrial plants. For reasons of the poor industrial development of
this region and early introduced protection measures, a nearly untouched
landscape has been preserved. In the partially primeval beech and fir forests
various rare species, such as the brown bear, have survived. At the Plitvice
Lakes, all species continue to exist that have already existed before the
coming of man. This is a rare case worldwide.
Flora [edit]
The lady's-slipper
orchid Cypripedium calceolus
(symbolic image)
The Plitvice Lakes national park is heavily forested, mainly
with beech, spruce, and fir trees, and features a mixture of Alpine and
Mediterranean vegetation. It has a notably wide variety of plant communities,
due to its range of microclimates, differing soils and varying levels of
altitude.
Scientists have so far listed 1,267 different plants out of
109 species that can be found within the area of the national park. 75 plants
are endemic, which means that they have first been defined and classified in
this area of the world or not far from it.[24] A great number of these plants
and species is protected by law. Within the national park area 55 different
species of orchids can be found.[14]
Examples of endemic plants to be found in the national park:
The great plant diversity creates a fascinating interplay of
colors changing with the seasons. The lake area is surrounded by dense forests.
The national park has an area of 29,842 hectares, out of which 22,308 hectares
are forests (74.75 percent), 6,957 ha are meadows (23.31 percent) in village
areas and 217 ha (0.72 percent) are water areas.[7] A unique area is the forest
of Čorkova uvala, a 79.50 ha large virgin forest in the northwestern part of
the park. The beech and fir trees in this area of the park are up to 700 years
old.[16] [25]
Fauna [edit]
Brown bear
(symbolic image)
The area of the national park is home to an extremely wide
variety of animal and bird species. Rare fauna such as the European brown bear,
wolf, eagle, owl, lynx, wild cat, and capercaillie can be found there, along
with many more common species.
The wider area of the national park is one of the last areas
in Europe, in which a great number of wild brown bears and wolves can be found.
The rich fauna of the Plitvice Lakes can be summed up as follows: As a whole,
there exist about 50 species of mammals. At the moment, scientists have
discovered 321 different kinds of butterflies, out of which 76 are addressed as
day-flying butterflies and 245 as nocturnal moths. Scientists, however,
estimate that up until now only about 40 percent of the whole population of
butterflies have been ascertained. Furthermore, 12 amphibian species, as well
as some species of reptiles have been ascertained so far: e.g. the viviparous
lizard (Lacerta vivipara), the european green lizard (Lacerta viridis), the
dice snake (Natrix tesselata), Vipera berus, Vipera ammodytes and the european
pond turtle (Emys orbicularis).[26]
As regards bird species, the Plitvice Lakes rank third among
other Croatian national parks. Up to now, 157 species have been counted, of
which 70 have been recorded as breeding there. The Plitvice Lakes are also home
to many kinds of bats. Recent findings list about 20 different kinds of bat
species, among them the rare species of Plecotus.[27]
So far, the exact origins of the different fish species have
not been entirely identified. As original species the brown trout (Salmo trutta
fario and Salmo trutta lacustris) can be named. Salmo trutta fario prevails at
the Upper Lakes, while Salmo trutta lacustris predominantly exists within Lake
Kozjak. These species developed under different life conditions independently
from each other within the various lakes.[27]
Due to the spreading growth of the vegetation at the
barriers, allochthonous (species that do not belong to this ecosystem) fish
species spread quickly and thus endanger autochthonous trout species. Apart
from the trouts, common minnows (Phoxinus phoxinus) too exist. By human
interference the species salvelinus alpinus and the North American rainbow
trout have been exposed to this ecosystem. Recently, even European chub
(Squalius cephalus) and common rudd (Scardinius erythropthalmus), species whose
emergence could be attributed to climate change, have been discovered. The
number of crayfish that have almost been extinct is now again increasing. Even
rare olms (Proteus anguinus) can be found in the karst caves of this region.
Examples of some animals that exist in the national
park:Lynx (Lynx lynx) Brown
bear (Ursus arctos)
Wolf (Canis lupus) Eurasian
Eagle-owl (Bubo bubo)
European Polecat (Mustela putorius) Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos)
Alpine Newt (Triturus alpestris) White-throated Dipper (Cinclus cinclus)
European pond turtle (Emys orbicularis)
History [edit]
Main article: History of Croatia
While other nature protection areas are located far away
from any interference by man, the Plitvice Lakes have permanently been exposed
to human influence in the course of history. The Plitvice Lakes do not
represent an abandoned or lonely nature reserve. They are located along an
important transport route and have always been a meeting place of occidental
and oriental cultural influences.
Early History and Medieval Age [edit]
Gradinsko jezero
Humans have inhabited the Plitvice Lakes area for thousands
of years. It has been settled in turn by Illyrians, Thracians, Celts, Japods,
Romans, Avars, Slavs, and Turks. Under Julius Caesar the region was
incorporated as the province of Illyricum into the Roman Empire. The areas of
the neighborly tribes of the Pannonians, the Liburnians and Dalmatians were
united into the province of Dalmatia. Successively, the Ostrogoths took over
the rule. After the Battle of Nedao in 454, the Ostrogoths were rewarded with a
federation agreement with the Roman Empire.
During the sixth century, Avars settled in this region,
which were accompanied by the Croats. The Croats eventually defied Avar control
and settled permanently in this region. In medieval times, frequent attacks by
Mongols posed a permanent threat to the settled population.[28] The lakes
formed part of the medieval kingdom of Croatia which in 1102 elected to be in
personal union with Hungary.
Croat rule and particularly the rule of the noble families
Zrinski and Frankopan led to economic recovery in the wider area. On the
remnants of an ancient settlement of the Japods and Romans a monastery was
built at the lakes. Presumably, this monastery belonged to the Order of Saint
Paul the First Hermit (Croatian pavlinci) or the Knights Templars. Today, only
ancient wall remnants of this building (Croatian gradina) exist. The foundation
was made of travertine rock.[8]
Ottoman Wars and the Habsburgs [edit]
Map of the former
Lika-Krbava County
In 1493, not far away from the Plitvice Lakes a decisive
battle in Croatian history between the Austrian and Ottoman Empire took place.
During the Battle of Krbava field almost the entire Croatian nobility was
killed. The Ottomans advanced far into Western lands up to Croatia and Hungary.
In 1527, at the parliament on Cetin the Croatian nobility elected the Habsburg
monarch Ferdinand, Archduke of Austria as the new king of Croatia in the hope
of resources to ward of the Ottoman advance. In 1528, the area fell to the
Ottomans and was retaken by the Habsburg Empire 150 years later.
In 1538, king Ferdinand I ordered the establishment of the
Croatian Military Frontier as a borderland of Habsburg Austria to the Ottoman
Empire. The laws that prevailed in this area under special jurisdiction had
formative impact on the local population for centuries. As a consequence of the
establishment of this special regime, people abandoned these areas in great
masses towards the West.
In addition to the native Croats already inhabiting the
region and serving in the Austrian military, many central Europeans migrated to
the region as did Serb Orthodox refugees fleeing Ottoman repression, who were
given refuge in the abandoned areas in exchange for military service. The
entire population of the military frontier, particularly the so-called
frontiersmen, had the duty to protect this area of permanent unrest and
terrible destruction. The region once also used to be called the garden of the
devil (hortus diabolus).[8]
The Ottomans succeeded several times to gain control over
the area of the Plitvice Lakes for shorter periods. In 1788, this area
permanently fell back under Habsburg rule. When the Ottoman threat subsided,
the Military Frontier was reverted to the civilian control of the Croatian
viceroy (Ban). The area then formed part of Banovina of Croatia within the
Kingdom of Yugoslavia and then part of the Socialist Republic of Croatia within
the Socialist Yugoslavia. Today, it is part of the Republic of Croatia.
In 1805, another major rule change happened, which created
an economic upturn. Dalmatia and Lika fell under the rule of Napoleon, who
founded the Illyrian provinces. After 1814, the area of the Plitvice Lakes came
back under Habsburg rule. Since 1850, only professional soldiers served in the
Military Frontier. This was also a time of national awakening in Croatia. In
1871, the famous Croatian politician Eugen Kvaternik was killed north of the
lakes at Rakovica. The Croatian rebellion was put down by Austrian authorities.
Kvaternik propagated the rule of law and argued for the liberation from
Austrian-Hungarian predominance.
Farmlands becoming an area of recreation [edit]
Prošćansko jezero
In former times, the local population lacked the proper
comprehension of the natural values of the Plitvice Lakes. Farmers had to focus
on securing the daily bread for their families in these dour times, which was
accompanied by grave changes to nature. For example, smaller lakes were filled
up with earth or people adapted the flow of the rivers to their individual
needs.
Already in 1861, an accommodation for travelers was erected
at Velika Poljana. The local population called this accommodation the Emperor's
house, since imperial military officers used to reside in this location. For
the visit of Crown Princess Stéphanie of Belgium, the wife of Crown Prince
Rudolf of Austria in 1888, the Plitvice Lakes and their surroundings were
arranged for tourist purposes for the first time in history. Two paths still
bear the names of the daughters of the Emperor Franz Joseph: "Stephanie's
Path" (Croatian Štefanijin put) and "Dorothea's Path" (Croatian
Dorotejin put).
In 1890, the tradesman Ante Devčić from Senj built the first
hotel with a restaurant at Prošćansko jezero. However, he exaggerated in his
efforts and also caused partly irreparable damage on the nature. For example,
he constructed canals across the travertine barriers for his saw mill that are
visible even today.
At the same place, today called Labudovac, Gustav Janeček, a
Czech from Zagreb, built a restaurant and accommodation. In 1893, Janeček
founded the Society for the preservation of the Plitvice Lakes (Croatian
Društvo za uređenje i poljepšanje Plitvičkih jezera), with the aim of
preserving the lakes after all negative influence they have been exposed to.
The society also built a hotel at the lakes.[8] In 1898, one of the waterfalls
was named after Croatian opera singer Milka Ternina.[29] She gave money from
concerts to preserve the park, upgrade tracks and build pathways.
During the First World War, the Croatian parliament in
Zagreb passed the Law on the Protection of the Plitvice Lakes in 1916. However,
this law did not contain adequate measures of protection and is thus not
regarded as official founding declaration of the national park.
During the following decades, preservation efforts reached a
deadlock. However, some very significant meetings took place at the Plitvice
Lakes during the Second World War, as for example the first secret regional
conference of the League of Communists of Croatia (Croatian: Savez komunista
Hrvatske, SKH) in 1940. On June 14, 1943 one of the founding sessions of the
National Anti-Fascist Council of the People's Liberation of Croatia (ZAVNOH)
took place at Plitvice Lakes. This was the highest governing organ of the
anti-fascist movement in Croatia during World War II. The former Secretary
General of the Communist Party of Croatia, Rade Končar, was born in Končarev
Kraj at the Plitvice Lakes in 1911.
The Lakes as National Park
Bus connection
offered to visitors of the national park
After the end of the Second World War, the unique natural
phenomena of this area were acknowledged permanently. On April 8, 1949, the
Plitvice Lakes were declared as a national park area and rigorous nature
protection measures were established.
During the 1960s, a modern road connection to the Plitvice
Lakes was constructed, which led to increasing traffic volumes. During these
years, several hotels and other objects were erected according to innovative
plans of Croatian architects. However, some buildings that would fit current
standards were already demolished during the 1980s by the Communist
authorities.
Between 1962 and 1968, many Western film productions of Karl
May novels have been shot at the Plitvice Lakes (mainly German-French-Yugoslav
cooperations). The most successful film of this series, The Treasure of Silver
Lake was also produced at some locations within the national park. (Lake
Kaluđerovac served as scenery for the Silver Lake.
During the 1970s, detailed land registers of the national
park were recorded. The park was inscribed on the UNESCO World Natural Heritage
List in 1979 in recognition of its "outstanding natural beauty, and the
undisturbed production of travertine (tufa) through chemical and biological
action".
During the 1980s, tourism was booming in Yugoslavia.
Plitvice Lakes National Park soon became one of Yugoslavia's most popular
tourist attractions. The beginning of the 1990s, however, marked another great
turning point in the history of this national park. In March 1991 it became the
scene of the Plitvice Lakes incident (also called the "Plitvice Bloody
Easter"), the first armed confrontation of the Croatian War of
Independence that resulted in fatalities. The park was held by local Serb rebels
backed by Slobodan Milošević and the Yugoslav People's Army (JNA) as part of
the self-proclaimed "Republic of Serbian Krajina" during the conflict
and suffered some damage in the process, with hotels and other facilities being
used as barracks. During the period under the control of Serb forces loyal to
Belgrade, Croats were ethnically cleansed from the region systematically.[34]
The region was retaken by the Croatian Army in August 1995 during Operation
Storm, which ended the Croatian war.Year Number
of visitors
1894 1,000
1989 500,000
2006 866,000
2008 947,000
2010 981,000[35]
2011 1,082,696[36]
During the war from 1991 until 1995, many buildings in the
national park were destroyed or burnt down. Due to the apparent risk of mines,
the park was even put on the UNESCO List of World Heritage in Danger during the
war years. After the war, the Plitvice Lakes were among the first areas to be
cleared of mines and renovated. In 1998, the national park was removed from the
List of World Heritage in Danger. In 2000, the national park was expanded by a
further 102 km² in order to protect the underground tributary streams.
Within the national park continuous scientific research
projects are being carried out. The national park administration currently
endeavors to introduce new, progressive protection measures. The idea exists to
replace the wooden bridges and paths by swimming ponton bridges. The existing
wooden paths are anchored within the travertine sediments, creating the danger
of seepage and cracks of the weak travertine.
The Plitvice Lakes are today one of the most frequently
visited tourist attractions in Croatia. Due to their high natural, cultural and
tourist significance they have become a motor for the local economy. About
1,000,000 visitors per year greatly contribute to the economic development of
the wider region.
Local Customs and Traditions
The preservation of old customs and traditions is of high
significance for the local population. The local culture has also been detected
as an important factor for tourism. As regards architecture, the region of Lika
is well known for its low wooden houses with roofs made of rye straw or
shingles. Many features of the ancient living style are mirrored in local
costumes. They tell a lot about regional affiliations or social standings of
those who have worn those costumes. Under French rule, men were allowed to wear
their costumes during military service.
Up until the 20. century, social gatherings during the
winter months, when no agricultural activities could be performed, called
"prelo" represented a typical tradition of this region.[38] These
gatherings served for the joint production of textiles or butter or for the
further processing of harvest products (production of flour, etc.). These
activities used to be accompanied by drinks and dances, particularly during the
evenings. An well-known dance of this region is the round dance (Croatian
kolo).
Local cuisine consists of drinks, such as Slivovitz
(Croatian šljivovica), wine and coffee or dishes, such as soft cheese (Croatian
vrhnje), polenta, pršut, sausages, (as for example the paprika sausage),
roasted suckling pig (Croatian: odojak) or lamb (Croatian: janjetina).
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